San Simeon To Pismo Beach 52 miles

Had a Mexican dinner last night. Maybe thats in preparation for the border which looms a week or so away. I think its an indicator.. i dont like Mexican food!
Up this morning bright and early. I cant get used to sleeping late anymore. Packed and gone by 9am.
Its a nice easy spin to Pismo Beach today. The profile is reasonably rolling and for the first in along time, I do not have to contend with a steep climb as soon as I take off. Instead it a slight downhill for a few miles which stretches these stiff legs out and settles them in for the day.
There is a clear sense today of moving from the Mountaineous cliff type terrain to more moderate rolling landscape. Leaving the land of the high headland and the smell of Redwoods to the peaceful pasture land of livestock and the clear smell of the eucalyptus tree which is common here.
The cycling too is different. Straight roads for miles over rolling landscape that encourages me to put her into a big gear and spin at a nice high speed. Its great cycling. Skirting around the busy Highway ! where possible, is very enjoyable and the miles click over.
Before leaving San Simeon I go to the beach to see hundreds of Giant seals suning themselves on the beach totally oblivious to the people who have come to see them. I suppose there is a reason they all come just here, the seals I mean but I havent the time to ask them.
At Morro Bay that giantic rock you see in the picture is one of '9 sisters' down the coast. Its the remains of the 'plug' of an ancient volcano which has eroded away. The forces that existed then have now made up the San Andreas Fault over which I am now cycling. I hope it stays quiet till I get over it...
Before I know it im in Pismo beach. You wouldnt half know. Kids on bikes passing me out for the laugh. Little pups think they are great cause they can overtake a 'real biker' Ha!!
Its a real Southern California resort and a taste of what is to come. Has a great beach and a long pier that goes out to sea and you can go out to where the surfers are catching waves and be right over them. The waves are only to be imagined...
Tomorrow is the last big climbing day. Down to Lompoc for 2 climbs of 1000 feet and 1 of 600 ft....Easy Peasy! Bring em on.....This boy is hot...!

Big Sur to San Simeon 67 miles

Woke at 3am. Its pouring out of the heavens. Thats the first actual rain I have seen. Maybe it will clear! Go back to sleep.. Waken at 6am still heaping it down (It never rains in Southern California, It pours man it pours). Should Istay in the tent for the day or what. Then Tom Keenan's words ring in my ears 'john, you have to learn to cycle in the rain too'. So up I get. Get dressed fold up the tent. Everything is wet now. But Im feeling good. Stopfor a hugh breakfast at the restuarant. Pig out on bacon and eggs, burger, bagels, cheese and 2 big pancakes with shed loads of maple syrup.
Stuffed to the gunnells head up the first 3 mile climb starting just outside the camp ground.
This is the big climbing day 4 major climbs interspersed with 30 miles of roller coaster. I mentally break up the days journey and it seems easier as I go. Legs are good today and the climbs are rolling under me. At 25 miles I stop to get a picture and I meet Ed and his wife Marge.Marge is originally from Broadstone and Ed is completely taken with my trip. We have a good chat and take our leave. At the top of the climb there is a restuarant and I stop for water and here is Ed waiting for me. We stop ands have lunch together and have a great chat. They wantto relocate out to southern california. Ed isin the electronic surveillance business a big New Yorker. Nice people.
Two more savage climbs to come and the backis broken on this sucker. Bring it on.Im feeling good.
Up the climbs Iget a gale of a tailwind that means an extra gear and I fly. Thye switchback descents are fantastic. I hog the middle of the road and keep the traffic off my back. hitting 38mph. Awesome!!
Over the last summit and a 15 mile fast flat spin all the way to San Simeon.
Into a well deserved motel and a bath!! Soak the bones for an hour and bring in alkl my washing as well.
No Percil or Daz on this trip. Living like a pig!!! Who cares....

Monteray to Big Sur 35 miles

Today I decided I was not going to make it the 60miles in the book so i decide,if i cant i will go as far as Big Sur and make the assault on the big hills the next day.Maybe its the power of suggestion but the legs are not working so well today and the miles are slow in ticking over.
There is a savage 4 mile climb out of Monteray which takes a lot of time and effort.The spin down to Highway One is exhilerating but the one is very busy today with a lot of traffic. An unnecessary divert throughy Carmel add a few more miles. Into Big Sur territory and those roller coaster roads around the headlands appear again. Up and Down over and over again. Climbs are short but steep and the decents are over in a minute . Not enough time to recover for the next climb. That goes on for 20miles and its energy sapping.
There is a couple of things worse than logging trucks and winnebago's .
On is people who carry dogs in the back of their pickup. You are cycling along oblivious to the traffic then all of a sudden, this wild barking dog is beside you. Scares the living daylights out of you. Cause normally you can hear a dog coming froma distance.
The other is MOTOR BIKERS!!. The noise of them as they pass, its worse than any truck and when there is a group of them as there was today, about 50 then it a racket. 'Fart Box Sewing Machines.' They should be made eat them.
Get myfirst puncture today.Not paying attention I slip off the road into a gravely patch and after some expert cycling skills, even if i do say so myself, I bring the bike to a safe stop. But at the cost of a puncture. I have to unload the bike on the side of the road to put new tube in.
Big Sur finally comes . Its not what i expected. I was expecting a high headland with crashing waves and surfers. Instead, its the opposite. A quiet little hamlet with 1 shop 1 motel (full) 1 filling station in the middle of a redwood forest. What a surprise! I make it to the Big Sur state park and a hiker biker site without phone or internet coverage. (back to the
wilderness). But has a shop and a restuarant.
Get a good rest and assault the big climbs first thing in the morning before the traffic.
Bought a new self inflating air matress to see if it helps my old bones .....

Santa Cruz to Monteray 45 miles

Leave camp by 8am.
Takes me a while and a lot of referring to by 'Bicycling the Pacific Coast 'book to get out of this town and on the right way to Monteray. So a bit slow and tedious. I have a feeling ,now Im in Southern California, its going to be like this to avoid the highways and freeways.
But, Im soon rolling through lush farm land. All arrible. No wasted land here. Growing strawberries by the 100 acres, Artichokes by the 1000 acres and Brussel Sprouts. I kid you not.
Hey kids! who doesnt like brussels
?You think your dad is the only screwball in the world who likes brussels. WELL GUYS? THINK AGAIN!!! American's love em! Take a look at that photo. Thats billions of tons of lovely brusslers! You can even buy them on the stalk here.
There are huge strawberry fields with dozens of farm workers bent over double picking them. And they grow right up to the side of the road. If that was Ireland, the outside plants would be stripped for 30 yards in the whole way around. I resist the temptation to get off and sample. Dont want to leave a bad impression of the Irish.
Its also near holloween so there a vast quantities of pumkins for sale. Dont feel like taking one of them so pass on by.
Hit the drag into Monteray. Its one of those legendary places you think youll never see and here it comes. The old Sinatra number 'It happened in Monteray'.
Its a nice town with cycle lanes everywhere. The last 15 miles have been on an enclosed cycle lane away from the main road. They provide them and you better use them. Try driving on the road, as I did, and they will kill you!! take the polish off your shoes.
Park the bike, put everything on charge, wash out my smalls and head off into Fishermans Wharf for a nice dinner. Well deserved....
Big highlight tomorrow.... BIG SUR... big waves , big scenery and big hills.
'They say it never rains in southern california' ... 'it pours man it pours'
rain is forecast................Talk later..

Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz 54 miles

That Pacific Ocean. I tell you its not to be messed with. I woke in the night and you would swear the sunami was coming to get me. The noise was fantastic! None of your, lapping waves rocking you to sleep with whale voices and sea breezes. This was full on explosive! I swore it was thunder, and the sea. The waves were BOOMING the beach. And it wasnt a wave sound.. it was a constant ROAR! I thought about getting out of the tent but I thought I could be one of those casualties that you hear about. You know! The guy went out to see the sea and was never seen again. Imagine my surprise the next day when there had been no storm or anything for that matter. Just another night on the Pacific.
Anyway, had breakfast with the CC group the next morning and they went off quietly. I think thats the last I will see them. We are all moving on.
A nice pace on the way to New Brighton Beach. The sun is hot now, so I have to get factor 30 for my lips. They are getting sunburnt. I bought some energy bars cause there will be no water or food for the next 37 miles. Thats what happens in this country. One day there is nothing cafes and shops but and then you are into virtual wilderness. Im prepared, so off I go. Legs are strong today, spinning away nicely and the miles are clocking down. I soon pass out two of the slower members of the CC group and sail on.
Davenport comes not a minute too soon. Nearly out of water and hungry. Stop at a cafe and have the big breakfast. 2 eggs over medium (there is something else other than 'over easy') bacon sausage, a short stack and maple syrup coffee and water. Woofed it down. Have a pee and fill my bottles and on the road again. Into Santa Cruz.
Santa Cruz is a huge city. Sprawls for miles and I am looking for directions on my book so progress is slow. Once Im sure Im on the right track I stop for supplies for the night and head to the New Brighton State Beach and my tent. Showers dont work but it amazing how much you can wash under a cold trickle coming out of a shower head. Down as far as you can. Up as far as you can, and dont worry about the bit in the middle.
After I am pitched a guy I had met about a week ago rolls in. Nice to see him again.
Bed by 8pm!!! Can you believe it!

San Francisco to Half Moon Bay 37 mi8lkes

I decide to head out of San Fran today insteadof sta ying longer. Its going to be a bit hairy to get out, so I decide the best thing to do is travel with the Cross Canadian Group for safety sake.
Anyway I would need lots more time in SF to see it properly and another day is not going to do it. So we decide to leave at 9.30am after the rush hour. Some of us go out to dinner for the evening and its nice meeting new members of the group. I have a nice chat with Ruddiger. Setting off into a lovely warm day, we head back up towards the Golden Gate to pick up our route out south. Some steep climbs up to bridge level and I am pleased I can pretty much stay with them. They are unloaded. Head down the coast to Daly City a lovely cycle along the edge of the Pacific but this is where we part company. A long 5mile drag up into Daly City puts an end to my cycling in the peleton. Im left for dead. But I grind it out and eventually get to the top and Im ok cause I have my own directions. I meet a little asian man on a road bike out for a spin and I regale him with my exploits ( I think he had English!!) I joke.. He is suitably impressed so I move on telling him 'Lifes too short man' .
The road now evens out and its a nice run till I hit the Devils Slide. I dont think I have to explain that one!! Knee braker!!
Over him and a thrilling 35 mph 5mile descent. Meet up with Paul a member of the CC group and we stop for a 12" subway before we get to the camp site at Half Moon Bay.
I set up camp with them as im invited to and it right on the side of the sea. When I go down to see the sunset I meet Herman and Mary and their dog. We chat and they tell me about their holiday in Ireland and how good it was. They live upon the highway and come down here every night to see the sunset. We are having a nice chat and they invite me to their house for a glass of wine. I arrange to meet them at 5.30 and we have a lovely hour or so chatting on their deck in their lovely home. Drinking chilled white wine and biscuits and cheese. Wonderful end to a lovely day.

San Francisco - days of rest!

What a great city!
Its appropriate that a city such as this should have a great entrance hall that is the Golden Gate Bridge.
There is so much life here. The layout of the city with the steep up and down streets ensures that you see the skyline of the city, no matter where you are in it. Its not too busy traffic wise today Monday . Maybe the weekends are particularly busy and that would make sense. Everyone goes out at the weekends.
Public transport is very good once you get the hang of where everything goes and unlike some places, town maps abound.
I get the bus to Height Street to visit the birthplace of the Flower Power movement in the Sixty's. I was there a number of years ago when it was still alive and well. And then, there was a great sense of the bohemian there and it was good to be there. Today, I can say that the Flower Power movement is no more! There is still the shops there selling dope smoking pipes and weird stuff, the strange clothes shops where you could buy anything with chains and beads on. Where you could find yourself talking to some 'way out' shop assistants who wanted only to love you. Now the hippies are all gone and there are only a few down and outs and homeless and some aging old hippies trying to hold to the remnants of what used to be.
Now there are a lot of Obama t shirts and stuff and there is definitely a change of emphasis from the old days. It was a shame and I leave feeling that a period of my history and a lot of peoples history has disappeared even if you were never a part of it.
Some of the steep streets are a sight to see. I head up to see the bendy street that is so steep they had to make it so the cars cant come straight down , you have to chicane down.
The streets up to it are, i swear 45 degrees. Its like treking up a mountain. Good exercise.... more tomorrow!